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1920 Visit Paris Ernest Hemingway The Sun Also Rises (now in a new stage adaptation in London) with a visit to the author's favorite cafes and jazz clubs

More Jazz Age pilgrimages

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As conductor of the dance floor with Fly Me to the Moon, the dark-haired girl screaming. "This is the best place in Paris"

Twenty jittterbugging couples, intermittent black and white two-tone shoes, little black dresses swaying to the rhythm. "I always come here when I'm on tour," he smiles. "Hey, come next month. My group will play in Paris"

here to play the city I -. Explore the jazz age myth and enjoy the rest of the time

The spark of my odyssey of jazz was provided by a working opening in London this week: Fiesta, a live-jazz adaptation of Ernest Hemingway novel that made the myth - and author - famous. Fiesta (which the United States was originally published as The Sun Also Rises, the book title is now generally called) describes a world of glamorous foreign writers, artists hope without fear and beautiful socialite who has 1920 Paris bright center of all that was new and bold.

"Paris," said Gertrude Stein, Hemingway and Picasso patron "was the 20th century. Was the place to be. "

begin where it began: at the crossroads of four age groups caf?s of Montparnasse Jazz. All are decorated with photographs of the writers and artists who met and discussed here. Dome (109, boulevard du Montparnasse, +33 1 4335 2581) is a fantasy of Tiffany lamps and potted palms and oysters on crushed ice.

La Coupole to number 102 (+33 1 4320 1420, cupola-paris.com) is a large art deco brasserie, Brancusi and brilliantly painted by Chagall.

Le Rotonde to 105 (+33 1 4326 4826, rotondemontparnasse.com) is red pompoms all the benches and lamps.

But I like

The Select at number 99 (+33 1 4548 3824) best. It has mirrored walls and art deco lamps, servers and grumpy cat asleep on the bar. I can order lunch and leave my dog-eared copy of Fiesta. On page 42, I think a whole scene in this room: the characters discuss the femme fatale of the book, end Brett bob hair. I wonder where they were sitting.

Back outside, there is another surprise. The street is the Dingo Bar, a dive where Hemingway met dissolute Twysden Lady Duff, Brett model. Here, too, he met F. Scott Fitzgerald, another prophet of the Jazz Age. Today is a restaurant called

L'Auberge de Venise

(10 rue Delambre, +33 1 4335 4309, aubergedevenise.fr), but the meter is wood. I tape bow.

front of my hotel, the decor Hotel des Academies> and Arts (15 rue de la Grande), I see a poster history: The Acad?mie de la Grande Chaumiere. Is an art school where he studied Paul Gauguin - as Modigliani and Giacometti. Students are coming with briefcases under their arms. Inside feels oil painting. wear in my search Boulevard Montparnasse. The Closerie des Lilas
(171, boulevard du Montparnasse, +33 1 4051 3450 closeriedeslilas.fr) is a charming caf? where Hemingway and Scott Fitzgerald wrote The Feast Great Gatsby reading. Place Contrescarpe is roughly a square full of cafes and former students, the establishment of the opening of its store in Paris, is a holiday. And 79 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine has a plaque to commemorate the modest apartment where he lived "in the early days when we were very poor and very happy." This is a store that was a -bal musette

. Petite rue des Lombards three jazz clubs and crowds of fans. I rattle the spiral staircase of the Sunset Club

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