Saturday, October 15, 2011

Matthew Kneale

and his family are veterans of the home exchange. However, moves in a Moroccan family - among the Arab riots of spring - show a wise decision

There is a special feeling when you give the final turn of the key in the lock and engage in an exchange. Weak demand, with the excitement of the trip, if you do something reckless. Which will allow in your home? They are, right now, accelerated on the highway in a moving van? Do you reach your destination Exchange to find the door locked? Or to find no home at all? This time, my sense of uncertainty was a little harder, if only because our destination was set lower than any we had visited before. We went to Morocco.

live in Rome, a city we love, but love and no less than in July and August At the end of June we dream of cold, green spaces. Fortunately calls Rome for people wishing to escape his own fresh greens. Summer exchanges led us in Vancouver and in the French Alps and the Pyrenees. We first brought home just as a way to swap travel without breaking the bank, but soon they had other charms. Although they only met one of the families who shared with him, I feel strange that everyone knows everyone. We felt welcome in his house, he learned something about how they ordered their lives, and - following your advice - visited their local favorite places, shopping in your favorite stores and eat at your favorite restaurants. They did the same in Rome, and during our stay we kept in touch regularly, comparing notes.

This year, he began to look doubtful that we would do a trade. A bleak mid-April had come - to a French family, he wrote, offering their holiday home in Essaouira on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. The pictures were beautiful, and are included in the agreement was a cleaner, cook, if you gave some money to buy food at the market, prepare breakfast and dinner: unprecedented luxury for an exchange. Our children have never been south of Europe, and even if she had any doubts about the heat, Morocco is an exciting new experience for them. For the rest can be an exciting experience for parents: a vision for the first hand Arab Spring

The prospect seemed less attractive accepted shortly after the exchange, when we learned of the horrors of the bomb coffee Marrakech. I suspect that the main danger of sharing the house is not vandalism or theft, but his sudden interchanges will change their minds, leaving a handful of tickets and go. In this case, however, have never seriously thought about canceling. The bomb appeared an isolated incident.

chance turned out to be the case. Arrive at Marrakech, the greatest danger seemed to be the 45 degree heat, motorcycles roaring through the labyrinthine alleys of the souk and the "guides" that will lead to endless circles around the old city to earn a good tip. The city, through a visual feast, was a place where strangers met the head of the rich poor, and it showed. The first victim - at least for Westerners - reliable information was available. All the facts, since the price of a pair of shoes the best way to reach the coast, were complicated by the hope of money. Fortunately, even in Marrakech, 100 km from our destination home exchange, which were helped by our exchange, which gave us a contact number in Essaouira, Hamsa. When he was quickly organized a comfortable car at a fair price.

This brings us to our new home. The house was beautiful - even more than the pictures on the exchange - and strangely tall and narrow, like a matchbox in place. Stairs climbed to a small terrace where you could see the Atlantic breakers crashing on the rocky shore. The house was also a bit wet, but as we quickly realized, was a danger of Essaouira. The city is known as a paradise for windsurfers. As such, it is swept by strong winds, they become decidedly chilly at night, and we are under outerwear. The sea was cold, and overall it felt a bit like Cornwall with the camels. At least not to worry about the stifling heat. In all others, however, was an excellent destination Essaouira. This allowed our children, who were quite frustrated by the hassle of Marrakech, Morocco to find a light. Our own kitchen, Hayat, was warm and friendly, like most people we met in the city. I was struck by a sense of the old quarter, coffee pumps seemed very far here


All
while Morocco has experienced a quiet revolution. We saw while driving from Marrakech to Essaouira. It was Friday - the traditional day of protest - and we saw a number of events, parades of cars going very slowly through the dusty towns, passengers holding a huge red and green flags of Morocco. In Essaouira, we met everyone was willing to talk about politics. His view seemed the same in general: they were disgusted by the corruption of the entrenched management of the campaign, but care still had faith in the king, Mohamed VI

Corruption was especially visible in what could not see. It was impossible not to be beaten by a lack of computers. Although Essaouira had two Internet cafes, which hardly worked, as the phone lines were so poor. In an information age, Morocco was forgotten.
However, the change was to come. The day after the events took place a referendum on reforms to limit the power almost absolute king. We could see the result - a 98% majority for reform - in the smiles of the people on the streets of Essaouira. It was very exciting to find witnesses of this moment of hope.

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