Monday, August 1, 2011

His inventiveness has passed from the judgments of a few over-weaned restaurant critics into an undisputed pillar of global culture. I've been reviewing restaurants for the Sunday Telegraph for five years: by the time I started, the Spaniard was already legend. I haven't been to the restaurant. Given the proviso that he's peerless, of course, I have seen the kind of thing he does, sort of replicated at the razzle dazzle end of English restaurants: Sat Bains in Nottingham, Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley and, in a less fanciful, more traditional way, Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons, Nathan Outlaw.

Delia Smith said earlier this month: "I like the 70s the best. Gifted amateurs opened restaurants and pubs and you could have real food. If I am in a Michelin-starred restaurant and they have done this beautiful little smoked haddock souffl? in a thimble, I would like to order a whole big plateful. No, I'm not for four-course tasting menus."


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